Ilaphu lomqhaphu lithandwa ngabathengi ngenxa yokusebenza kwalo kakuhle kwefayibha yendalo kunye nokunxiba ngokukhululekileyo. Ngokwenkqubo yokusetyenzwa, amalaphu womqhaphu ahlulwe abe ziindidi ezimbini eziphambili: amalaphu angwevu kunye. intambo amalaphu adayiweyo.

Ilaphu lombala wendalo (okanye ilaphu elikrwada elimhlophe) libandakanya ilaphu lomqhaphu lombala wendalo, umxube wodidi lomqhaphu wemichiza, ukusonta okucocekileyo, ilaphu eliphothiweyo kunye nelaphu elingenanto eliphakathi nelide elimhlophe, njl njl. , i-serge, ikhaki, i-sateen, i-hemp yarn, i-flannelette engenanto, njl njl. 9 iindidi; Iindidi eziphambili zamalaphu anemibala yi-suiting enentambo, i-flannelette edayiweyo, intambo edayiwe ngokuthe ngqo, i-gingham enemigca, ibhedi, i-poplin edayiweyo kunye ne-cambric. , i-seersucker edaywe ngomsonto, i-tweed edayiweyo ubude obuphakathi, ilaphu lomsebenzi, njl.

1. Amalaphu angenanto

(1) ilaphu elilula

Ilaphu elingenanto lilaphu elilula, ukuxinana kwe-warp kunye ne-weft yelaphu le-warp kunye ne-weft lisondele kakhulu, ngoko ke i-warp kunye ne-weft tightness ratio imalunga ne-1:1, kwaye i-warp kunye ne-weft yokuqina kwelaphu elingenanto imalunga ne-50%. Ilaphu lineempawu zesakhiwo esilula kunye nokuthungwa okunamandla.

Ngokomahluko wokuxinana komsonto, ilaphu elilula linokohlulwa libe lilaphu elicikizekileyo elicacileyo, ilaphu eliphakathi elilula kunye nelaphu elirhabaxa elilula. Ngokuqhelekileyo, ukuxinana komsonto we-warp kunye ne-weft yelaphu elicolekileyo lingaphantsi kwe-20tex (ngaphezu kwama-29 amasebe aseBritani). ilaphu elilula eliphakathi yi-21 ~ 32tex (28 ~ 19 amasebe aseBritani), kunye nebhanti elirhabaxa elirhabaxa lingaphezulu kwe-32tex (ngaphantsi kwe-18 yamasebe aseBritani) .Imbonakalo yelaphu elilula ifuna umphezulu ogudileyo kwaye ugudileyo, kwaye utyebile.Phakathi kwabo, Ilaphu lomzimba welaphu elicolekileyo elilula lilula kwaye libhityile, ligudileyo kwaye licocekile, livakala lithambile, lityebile kwindalo ecwebezelayo yefayibha yomqhaphu, kwaye kukho ukungcola okumbalwa kwilaphu. rhabaxa ngaphezulu, iadvanteji yayo yilaphu elishinyeneyo lomzimba, liqinile kwaye lihlala ixesha elide.Ubume kunye nenkangeleko yelaphu eliphakathi elilula liphakathi kwelaphu elirhabaxa nelicolekileyo elilula.

(2) ipoplin

I-Poplin lubalo olusezantsi (ubalo oluphezulu), ithafa loxinaniso oluphezulu okanye ilaphu le-jacquard elincinane.Ubumbano lwalo longitudinal yi-65% ~ 80%.I-latitude compactness ingaphantsi kancinane kunelaphu elingenanto, kwaye umlinganiselo welongitude ukuya ku-latitude compactness imalunga 5: 3 Iimpawu zesitayela selaphu le-poplin zezi: ukubonakala kwelaphu lilungile, i-warp kunye ne-weft yarn icwangciswe kakuhle, intambo yomiswe ngokulinganayo, ilaphu ligudile kwaye lide, iinkozo zicacile kwaye zityebile. Ukuva isandla sithambile kwaye siyatyibilika, sinemvakalelo yesilika. Ukongeza, ngenxa yokuba ingxinano ye-warp ye-poplin inkulu kakhulu kunoxinano lwe-weft, umsonto we-weft kwilaphu uthe tye ngakumbi kwaye umsonto worp ibhetyebhetye ngakumbi, oko kukuthi, kukho amasuntswana amile okwedayimani abunjwe yinxalenye ephakanyisiweyo ye-warp kumphezulu welaphu. Ukuzaliswa kweengqungquthela zedayimani enye yeemeko ezibalulekileyo zendwangu ye-poplin ibe nokubonakala kakuhle.

Ngokutsho kwesakhiwo somsonto kunye neempawu, i-poplin ye-poplin inokwahlulwa ibe yi-poplin yentambo, i-poplin yomgca wesiqingatha (i-warp kunye ne-weft) kunye ne-poplin yomgca ogcweleyo weentlobo ezi-3. Ngokwesakhiwo sayo sombutho, inokwahlulwa ibe yi-poplin ecacileyo, i-poplin kunye ne-jacquard poplin 3 iintlobo;Ngokwenkqubo yokusonta, inokwahlulwa ibe yipoplin eqhelekileyo, i-semi-combed poplin (i-warp combed, i-weft non-combed) kunye ne-poplin ehlanganiswe ngokupheleleyo , njl.

(3) mull and voile

Zombini i-mair kunye ne-voile ngamalaphu akhaphukhaphu anoxinano olusezantsi. Ubuninzi bomsonto we-maier yi-10 ~ 15tex. umsonto omnye idla ngokuba yi-J9tex ~ J15tex, kwaye umsonto weply ngu-J6.5 Tex ×2 okanye ngaphantsi.

2. Amalaphu e-Twill

Amalaphu e-twill abonakaliswe ngemigca yawo ecacileyo (eyaziwa ngokuba yimigca) kumphezulu welaphu. I-Khaki twill ifuna "ukulingana, ubunzulu, kunye nokuthe tye"."Even" ithetha ukuba i-twill iyalingana; Umgca ukuya kwi-concave kunye ne-convex ecacileyo;Into ebizwa ngokuba "ithe tye" ibhekiselele kumsonto osontiweyo ubude bokudada kufuneka bulingane, kwaye akukho senzeko sokugotywa kwe-skew.I-uniform kunye ne-twill ethe tye sisimbo esiqhelekileyo samalaphu e-twill.

Kukho iintlobo ezininzi zamalaphu e-twill, anokuthi ahlulwe abe yi-twill ekhohlo kunye ne-right twill.Ngokombutho unokwahlulwa ube yi-twill enye kunye ne-double twill 2 iindidi;Kushishino lunokwahlulwa lube yi-twill, i-serge, i-gabardine kunye ne-khaki, njl.

(1) twill (middy twill)

I-Twill yi-2/1 twill weave. Ukusuka kumphezulu wayo, umgca we-twill ngaphambili ubonakala ngakumbi, ngelixa umgca we-twill ngasemva awubonakali kangako.I-texture yelaphu le-twill isondele kwaye inzima kunelaphu elilula, kwaye ivakalelwa kukuba ithambile.I-Twill inokwahlulwa ibe ziindidi ezintathu: i-twill, i-twill enesiqingatha kunye ne-twill epheleleyo.Ngokobuninzi bomsonto unokwahlulwa ube yi-twill erhabaxa kunye ne-fine twill 2 iindidi.

(2) serge

USerge ngu-2/2 we-twill weave, enedigri ezihlukileyo zetwill kumacala omabini. I-Serge ine-texture eqinile, enzima kune-twill.Ngokokusetyenziswa kweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zomsonto, zinokwahlulwa zibe yi-serge ye-yarn, i-half line serge kunye ne-serge epheleleyo yeentlobo ze-3. U-Serge ngakwesobunxele, u-serge kwisiqingatha kunye nomgca opheleleyo, serge ngasekunene.

(3) gahardine

Gabardine kwakhona 2/2 twill weave, ngokweentlobo ezahlukeneyo umsonto osetyenziswayo, nako ukwahlulwa ibe ziindidi ezintathu gabardine, gabardine isiqingatha umgca kunye gabardine full line.Same umsonto gabardine for twill ekhohlo, umgca wesiqingatha kunye nomgca opheleleyo gabardine for ilungelo.

(4) ikhaki

Ngokweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zomsonto osetyenzisiweyo, ikhaki inokwahlulwa ibe ziindidi ezintathu: ikhaki, ikhaki enesiqingatha kunye nekhaki enemigca epheleleyo. kwaye kucacile, umgca we-reverse twill awubonakali, ubizwa ngokuba yi-khaki enye, isalathiso sayo se-twill sishiywe i-oblique, i-texture isondele kwaye iqinile.Isiqingatha somgca wekhaki kunye nomgca ogcweleyo wekhaki uninzi lokusetyenziswa kwe-3/1 umbutho we-twill, ngaphambili kunye umva wemigca efanayo, ebizwa ngokuba yikhaki ephindwe kabini. Umgca wekhaki nawo une-2/2 twill weave, apho i-twill yasekunene ngaphambili ijiyile kwaye ibonakala ngakumbi kune-3/1 twill.

USerge, i-gabardine, ikhadi elimacala amabini onke amkela i-2/2 ye-twill weave, umahluko ikakhulu ilele kwi-warp eyahlukeneyo kunye ne-weft tightness yelaphu, kunye ne-warp kunye ne-weft tightness ratio. kunye ne-weft tightness ratio incinci, ngoko ke ilaphu likhululekile ngokwentelekiso, i-warp kunye ne-weft ye-weft point ye-weave point icacile, ingqolowa ibanzi kwaye ithe tyaba; Umlinganiselo we-warp kunye ne-weft compactness ye-gabardine mkhulu kune-serji, kunye ne-warp. kunye ne-weft compactness ratio ye-gabardine imalunga namaxesha aphindwe ka-1 kune-serge, ngoko ke umzimba welaphu ukrwada, ungqindilili, awuqini, awugugi kwaye awuqhekeki, isithuba sokuthungwa kwelaphu sincinci, umgca we-twill uyaphakanyiswa, kwaye Incopho kunye nentlambo ziyabonakala.I-warp kunye ne-weft tightness kunye ne-warp kunye ne-weft tightness ratio yekhadi elinamacala amabini zezona zikhulu, ngoko ke umzimba welaphu unzima, uqinile kwaye uqinile, kunye nengqolowa ecolekileyo, umgca we-twill ucace ngakumbi kunoko. gabardine.

3, i-satin drill

I-Satin drill yilaphu eliphezulu lomqhaphu elilukiweyo kwi-satin weave.I-Sateen inokwahlulwa ibe yi-sateen ethe tye (eququzelelwe yi-warp sateen) kunye ne-sateen ethe tye (eququzelelwe yi-weft sateen) .Kwimveliso yokwenene, ilaphu le-sateen lidla ngokuSEBENZISA imigca emihlanu ye-satin.

Imisonto ye-warp kunye ne-weft yamalaphu e-damask ngokubanzi inoxinaniso olufanayo.Ilaphu le-satin yelaphu le-warp ethe tye ingxinano yelaphu ye-warp ye-warp ingaphantsi kune-weft, isiphumo se-satin ye-warp ilungile, ivakale ngqindilili. i-coefficient ye-twist ye-warp ingaba phezulu kwaye i-weft ibe ngaphantsi kwi-sateen fabrics.I-twist coefficient encinci, i-soft feel of fabric, inokunciphisa i-loping.

4, Umsonto womsonto

Imisonto eDimity ilukwe ngokubanzi ngobunzima beweft obahlukeneyo kunye nobume obumcaba, inika ukuthungwa okubanzi kunye nokucutheneyo kumphezulu welaphu. Ubume belaphu lelaphu le-hemp kufuneka bubonakale kwaye buthe tye, ukuxinezeleka komsonto wokuluka kunye ne-weft kulungele kwaye kucwangcisiwe. ngokulinganayo, umphezulu welaphu ugudileyo kwaye udini lwelaphu luthe tye kwaye lucocekile.Ukujija kwemisonto yokuluka kumalunga ne-10% ngaphezulu kwaleyo yemisonto eqhelekileyo. I-twist ye-weft yarning imalunga ne-10% ngaphantsi kunaleyo yamalaphu aqhelekileyo.

5, iflanethi

I-Flannelette inokwahlulwa ibe ngamacandelo amabini ngokwemowudi yayo yokucubungula: i-flannelette egrey kunye ne-flannelette edaywe ngomsonto.I-flannelette edaywe ngomsonto inokwahlulwa ibe yi-corduroy esecaleni, i-double corduroy, i-concave ephindwe kabini kunye ne-velvet ye-convex, i-velvet ye-lining, i-velvet yombala wegridi, kabini. I-velvet ye-weft, i-velvet e-abrasive kunye nezinye iimveliso. Ilaphu le-Flannelette ubukhulu becala lutsalo lwe-weft. Ngesiqhelo, umlinganiselo woxinaniso womsonto we-warp kunye ne-weft ye-single-serge yi-1:1.5 ~ 1:2.Umlinganiselo woxinaniso we-warp kunye nemisonto ye-weft malunga ne-1∶2. I-Tex yelaphu elibhityileyo. Ilaphu leVelvet livela kwisiphumo se-nap, phantsi kwemeko yokwanelisa amandla e-weft, i-twist ephantsi ilungile. I-flannelette inkulu kune-warp.I-warp yesiqhelo / i-weft tightness ratio imalunga ne-58.3: 58.3 ye-serge emacala amabini, kunye ne-1: 1.7 ukuya ku-1: 1.2 ye-serge esecaleni.

Ilaphu leFlannelette linomehluko omkhulu kwi-warp kunye ne-weft density, kunye ne-twist encinci kunye nokuthungwa okuthambileyo. Emva kokuhlanjululwa kunye nokuchetywa, umphezulu welaphu elingwevu uba yi-fluffy. Umphezulu welaphu unefiber eguquguqukayo kwaye umaleko womoya unyukile, ngaloo ndlela ukuhanjiswa kwe-thermal kuncitshisiwe kwaye nokugcinwa kobushushu kuphuculwe.

(umthombo: iakhawunti esemthethweni yesikhokelo selaphu)